Cooking

A St. Valentine’s Day secret - for men only!

Southern Cooking at it’s best!

by Eddy Browning

“A woman in love
needs sweet inspiration
Yeah, and honey that’s all I ask,
that’s all I ask from you
I’ve gotta have your sweet inspiration
You know there just ain’t no tellin’
what a satisfied woman might do!” *

     If thanksgiving is colonial, and Christmas medieval, then the tradition of Valentine’s Day is Victorian. The custom of sending love tokens is much older historically (St. Valentine, the martyred saint whose name is honored, lived in the third century), but it seemed to find perfect expression in Victoriana - Hearts and flowers, poetry, cupids, doilies, ceremony, Flaubert, Chopin, Poe. “For love’s sake” had a mysterious, forbidden drama then. Although I don’t see many of my lady-friends receiving lace-edged handkerchiefs, hand-dipped chocolates, or unsigned cards anymore, I have clear memories of my own Valentine’s Days, mostly from my childhood.

     As a child I enjoyed the ritual of making a box covered in red velvet, trimmed with cherub cutouts and doilies, that I hoped would be filled with valentines. I helped all three of my children make theirs too, when they were children. Now, my two daughters enjoy making their own. For the sake of romance, I still enjoy making special cards with bits and pieces of fussy materials intended for close and dear lady friends.

     Valentine’s Day is a whimsical event and, if only for sentiment, deserves an elegant, very sentimental approach.

     With that said, now men - your goal is to “take charge” and plan an elegant and very sentimental event that will leave the lady of your heart and “the love of your life” a “satisfied woman.” I’m giving you a classic romantic evening with the volume turned up!

     Start Valentine’s Day by telling her you’ve made special plans for the evening. Her heart will zing! If children are home, make arrangements to have them out of the house for the entire evening. Let her know that her first gift will be a visit to her favorite salon where she will receive a full-body massage, facial and a manicure for her hands and feet etc. (Echoes reminiscent of the French Court at Versailles). As she arrives home let her find the house clean and orderly. Have the dining room table set with her finest china, crystal and silver. Be sure to have her favorite music playing and, of course, candles everywhere!

     You have the wine chilling as she takes in the delightful aroma of the food awaiting you both. Its time for her next gift; a bottle of her favorite perfume wrapped and decorated with sentimental pictures of times past. Gently take her hand and lead her into the dining room, where you assist her taking her seat at the table. She warmly smiles as looks upon a free flowing arrangement of asters, tulips, sprigs of miniature orchids, sweet heart roses and berries.

     Begin the special meal by pouring her a glass of the special wine you’ve been chilling. It’s now time for the appetizer: a half dozen steamed oysters on the half-shell. Begin to reminisce of how you were first attracted to her. As she finishes her oysters, pour her a little more wine and then serve her a salad of arugula with roasted pears and goat cheese, continuing to reminisce as you gaze into one another’s eyes.

     Continue sharing your personal thoughts of her as you clear the table and serve the main course; Pepper-crusted beef with cognac and golden raisins. Remember to keep an eye on her wine glass, refilling when necessary.

     Now before I go any further, remember this is a cooking column and not part of the Karma Sutra. I will however give you the recipe that will assist greatly in completing your evening.

     This recipe is easy to prepare. Pepper, made from the small dried berries of a tropical vine native to India, has been the most widely used spice in the world for centuries. Green peppercorns are harvested when not quite ripe, and are most often dried or cured in brine or vinegar. Black peppercorns are picked when ripe, allowed to ferment, and then dried until they shrivel and turn brownish black. White pepper is allowed to ripen more fully on the vine before the black outer husk is removed. The husks are removed in a steady stream of water, so the peppercorns are very white and very clean.

     To crust a beef filet with a combination of crushed peppercorns is a traditional French cooking technique known as “au poivre.” Here, the bite of the pepper is tempered by the sharp cognac and fruity golden raisins. Marie Antoinette would gladly fall into your arms for a taste!

Pepper-Crusted Beef with Cognac and Golden Raisins
Serves 4 to 6

1/2 cup cognac, brandy or bourbon;
1/2 cup golden raisins;
1 teaspoon whole white peppercorns, crushed;
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns, crushed;
1 teaspoon whole green peppercorns, crushed;
1 whole allspice berry, crushed;
4 to 6 (6-ounce) boneless rib-eye or tenderloin steaks, (cut about 1 1/2 inches thick);
coarse salt;
2 tablespoons canola oil;
1/3 cup beef stock or low fat, reduced-sodium beef broth;
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into bits.

     To plump the raisins, heat the cognac in a small saucepan over low heat just to simmering. Remove from the heat. Add the raisins and set aside to plump, about 30 minutes.

     To pan-fry the steak, combine the white, black, and green peppercorns and allspice in a shallow bowl. Season the steaks with salt on both sides and press the peppercorns into one side of the steak.

      In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the steaks, without crowding, pepper side down first, and cook each side for 3 to 5 minutes for medium-rare. Transfer the meat to a warm platter and cover with aluminum foil to keep warm.

     To make the pan sauce, pour off the fat from the skillet. Remove the skillet from the heat and add the raisins and cognac. Return the pan to high heat and bring to a boil. (If you have a gas cook top especially, watch for flame-ups.) Cook until the mixture is reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add the beef stock, decrease the heat to medium, and cook until slightly reduced, an additional 2 minutes.

     To finish the sauce with butter, remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the butter, one piece at a time. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt. No additional pepper is necessary.

     To serve, return the steaks and any accumulated juices to the skillet and baste with the sauce. Serve immediately with smashed garlic mashed potatoes.

     End the meal with a cold bottle of good champagne, hand dipped chocolates and fresh raspberries! By now, you both should be hearing sounds of Bolero weaving its spell. And then you will know “what a satisfied woman can do.”

“The way you call me baby, baby
Is such a sweet inspiration
The way you call me darlin’, darlin’
Sets my heart to skating
And if I’m out in the rain, baby
And in a bad situation
You know I just reach back in my mind
And there I find your sweet, sweet inspiration.

“Sweet inspiration
Oh, what a power
And I’ve got the power
Every hour of the day
I need your inspiration
To go on, to go on living
To keep on giving this way.” *

Have a happy St. Valentine’s Day and good luck!

Until next week . . . . . .Eat well!
*(Lyrics and music by Dan Penn and Spooner Oldham; Sung by “Lady Soul”, Miss Aretha Franklin. Used with permission.)

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