Cooking

Advent III: Gifts from the heart and hearth

by Eddy Browning
eddy@saintpetersnc.org

     Christmas for me and my family is a time of intense domestic involvement. Many of the visible tokens of celebration, the decoration of the house and the presents for friends, are in fact family projects that are relaxing and pleasurable.

     My daughter, Mary Courteney, now married and teaching fifth grade, undertakes her own preparations, and they are beautiful and delicious. Elizabeth, my oldest, also undertakes her own preparations which are equally beautiful. Both are outstanding cooks, particularly Mary Courteney! Her years of culinary training have really paid dividends. For weeks they both wear a secret smile and putter about, making fruitcakes and trifles for their friends, and concocting new versions of cookies.

     My son, John, is a good cook too. In his youth, he was always concerned that the family dog Duke, Kitty Puss our Balinese and Toulouse our Burmese were remembered at Christmas. Early one morning he noticed little birds feeding at our window bird feeder and thought that they too needed gifts for the holidays. John decided that he would make our first Christmas tree for Birds!

     Making this special tree has now become a family tradition. With fifteen years of experience let me say that this tree belongs in a corner of the yard, where it will provide a midwinter treat for the birds.

     Let the children mastermind the decoration or make it a family project for an intimate at-home evening. String popcorn, string cranberries, and drape a tree, large or small, with these garlands. Add lady apples, tied with ribbon. Just before you move the tree to the out-of-doors, hang suet balls and small mesh bags of birdseed from the outside branches.

     Our household has always enjoyed making edible presents. My favorites include traditional fruitcakes and plum puddings, as well as bourbon cakes, bourbon balls, jellies, jams, herb vinegars, and bottles of crystal red cranberry liqueur along with all kinds of fudge, pies, cookies and breads.

     This first recipe is easy to make and delicious. Whether serving this at your next gathering or presenting it as a gift, you will enjoy the ease in preparing this plump, savory round. I love this bread sliced thin and toasted, served with a glass of white wine. Ring the doorbell with your elbow and present the hostess with a bottle of wine and this bread, and you’re assured of being invited back.

Blue Cheese Pecan Bread
Perfect for the Hostess
Makes one 8-inch round loaf

4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour; 1/2 cup sugar; 1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda; 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder; 1 teaspoon salt; 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cut in 1/2-inch pieces, chilled; 2 ounces blue cheese, crumbled (1/2 cup); 1/4 cup chopped pecans; 1 1/2 cups plus 1 tablespoon buttermilk; 1 large egg, beaten; freshly ground black pepper.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

     In a large bowl, sift together the flour, sugar, baking soda, baking powder, and salt. Cut in the butter until the mixture looks like oatmeal. Add the cheese and nuts, and toss to distribute in the flour. Make a well in the center and add 1 1 /2 cups of the buttermilk and the egg. Stir with a sturdy spoon until you have shaggy dough.

     Tip the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead gently to bring together. Form into a slightly flattened 6-inch round. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush with the remaining 1 tablespoon buttermilk and sprinkle with pepper. With a serrated knife, cut a shallow X in the top of the loaf.

     Bake for 10 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 375 degrees F. and bake for 35 minutes, or until the loaf is deep golden brown and sounds hollow when thumped on the bottom. Cool on a wire rack.

     NOTES: If the loaf begins to brown too much, tent it with foil.

     My daughters tell me that sliced Granny Smith apples and red grapes go well served with this bread.

     This next recipe is a loaf that is studded with glace fruits, citrus peel, and nuts. It should not be mistaken for fruitcake.

Holiday Fruit and Nut Bread
Makes one 9-inch loaf

1/2 cup dried zante currants; 1/2 cup chopped candied red cherries; 1/2 cup chopped candied pineapple; 1/2 cup chopped dried apricots; 1/2 cup chopped walnut pieces; 1 cup natural applesauce; 2 cups sugar; 2 large eggs; 1/2 cup vegetable oil; 1/2 teaspoon almond extract; 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest; 1 teaspoon grated orange zest; 2 1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour; 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder; 1/2 teaspoon baking soda; 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt.

     Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Spray a 9 x 5 x 3-inch loaf pan with nonstick spray, or line with parchment paper.

     In a medium bowl, combine the currants, cherries, pineapple, apricots, and nuts. Set aside 1/2 cup of the fruit and nut mixture to top the loaf.

     In a large bowl, whisk together the applesauce and sugar until the sugar dissolves. Add the eggs, oil, almond extract, and lemon and orange zests. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Stir the dry ingredients into the applesauce mixture. Fold in the fruits and nuts. Fill the prepared loaf pan with the batter. Sprinkle the reserved 1/2 cup fruit and nuts over the top.

     Bake for 1 hour, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. If the fruits on top begin to darken, tent the loaf with foil as it bakes. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes. Run a sharp knife around the edge of the loaf, tip out onto a wire rack, and set upright to cool.

     NOTES: Use high-quality glace fruits for this loaf. They are little more expensive, but are not as “sweetie sweet” as the cheaper ones.

     Dried pears are also a nice addition. Substitute as you wish, aiming for a total of 2 cups of assorted candied or dried fruits and nuts.

     If you like, plump the dried fruit in a bit of warm brandy before draining them and adding them to the bread.

     Going all the way back to my great-great-great grandmother, Mackey girls have bought these wonderful cookies from Dewey’s Bakery in Salem. Since we were given the recipe, we’ve been making them for years. The key to getting them at their chewy best is keeping a close watch on them while they are in the oven and removing them from the hot pans straightaway to a cooling rack. Store them in an airtight container to keep them fresh.

Ginger Molasses Cookies
Makes 24 cookies.

2 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour; 1 teaspoon baking soda; 1/2 teaspoon salt; 1 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger; 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon; 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice; 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves; 3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar; 3/4 cup ( 1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened; 1 large egg; 3/4 cup molasses; 1 cup granulated sugar.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

     In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, salt, ginger, cinnamon, allspice, and cloves. In an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the brown sugar and butter at medium speed until light in color. Add the egg and molasses, and beat until well combined, scraping the bowl as necessary. Reduce the speed to low and slowly add the flour mixture. Scrape the bowl and mix for 1 minute at medium speed.

     Form the dough into tablespoon-size balls. Roll each ball in the granulated sugar and place 2 inches apart on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until slightly brown and pulled. Transfer to a rack to cool.

     NOTES: Spray the measuring cup with a little nonstick spray before adding the molasses and the molasses will slip right out.

     A little bit of diced crystallized ginger pushed into the center of the cookies before they go in the oven dresses them up and adds a little zing.

     These cookies can be rolled in sugar, them frozen, and baked a few at a time right from the freezer for an afternoon coffee break pick-me up. Increase the baking time to 15 minutes.

     We call this next recipe Polka Dot Shortbread. All children love to makes these and they are easy to make and so delicious! They will quickly become a favorite in your household too. The secret to the sandy texture of thisfantastic shortbread is rice flour. Little dots of fruit jam and lemon curd dress up the tops and melt right into the buttery cookie.

Polka Dot Shortbread
Makes 16 cookie wedges.

1 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour; 1/4 cup rice flour; 1/2 cup sugar; 1/2 teaspoon salt; 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cold, cut into small pieces; 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract; 2 tablespoons seedless raspberry jam; 2 tablespoons lemon curd.

     Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F.

     In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, blend the flours, sugar, and salt. Add the butter and vanilla and pulse several times to form dough. Press the dough into an 8-inch tart pan with a removable bottom or into 1/4-inch-thick round on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Score the dough to mark 16 wedges. Bake for 10 minutes.

     Meanwhile, fill two small piping bags or sandwich bags with the jam and lemon curd.

     Remove the shortbread from the oven. With a wooden dowel or spoon handle, make small divots around the surface of the dough, pressing about halfway through the dough. Fill some dots with a small squirt of jam and some with a small squirt of lemon curd. Return to the oven and bake for 10 more minutes, or until golden around the edges. Be careful not to let them get too dark; just the edges should begin to brown. Cool in the pan on a rack.

     Remove from the pan and cut along the scored marks.

     NOTES: Use a top-quality butter or European-style or organic cultured butter for the freshest butter flavor.

     This basic dough is wonderful baked without the dots, but can also be flavored many ways. Try adding 1/4 teaspoon lemon, orange, or mint extract in place of the vanilla.

     Look for lemon and lime curd in the jam section at the market. Apricot jam and seedless blackberry jam are also a good combination.

     If making these on a baking sheet, press the outer edge with the tines of a fork to decorate.

     This shortbread keeps well in a tin and ships well, too.

     Lastly, I want to share with you a recipe that is so easy to make and is always so appreciated as a gift. It’s beautiful to behold and is so delicious too! This simple-to-make cordial is a perfect Christmas gift. Three ingredients, little preparation, and 22 days result in a colorful tart-sweet drink for after-dinner imbibing.

Cranberry Cordial
Makes 3 cups

2 cups crushed cranberries; 2 cups sugar; 2 cups vodka.

     Combine ingredients and store in a covered jar in a cool place for at least 22 days. Strain and serve as an after-dinner drink.

     At Christmas our thoughts always revolve around the heart and hearth. Any of these delightful recipes would make a wonderful gift to let someone know just how much you think of them. Again, I ask you to remember those less fortunate with a gift from your heart in the name of the Christ Child.

Until next week… Eat well!

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